Category: Embroidery

There are numerous knots in the video clip on this page.  They are listed in the table below, in the order is which they appear, with the starting time for each variety in the right-hand column. 

French Knots – single wrap	11 seconds
French Knots – two wraps	33 seconds
Colonial Knots	1 minute 6 seconds
French Knots – multiple wraps	1 minute 51 seconds
Loose French Knot Filler	4 minutes 50 seconds
Extended French Knots (Pistil Stitch)	6 minutes 2 seconds

In the video clip on the tuition page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread on and within circles.   If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, work with similar thread.

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

French Knot – single wrap

Bring the needle up through the fabric, twist the thread over the needle once and tighten.  Go back into the fabric just next to where you came out.  Pull the twist that is around the needle down to the bottom.  Hold the thread and pull the needle through to form the knot.

French Knot – two wraps

Bring the needle up through the fabric, twist the thread over the needle once or twice and tighten.  Go back into the fabric just next to where you came out.  Pull the twists that are around the needle down to the bottom.  Hold the thread and pull the needle through to form the knot.

Colonial Knot

There is very little difference in the look of this knot when compared to the French knot.  Bring the needle up through the fabric, pick up the thread in a backwards “C” shape.  Take the working end of the thread over the needle to the right then under the needle to the left, effectively making a figure 8 with the thread.    Go back into the fabric about ½ a millimeter away from where you came out.  Pull the twists that are around the needle down to the bottom.  Hold the thread and pull the needle through to form the knot. 

French Knot – Multiple wraps

Bring the needle up through the fabric, twist the thread over the needle up to ten times.  Go back into the fabric just next to where you came out, pulling the needle but not all of the thread through.  Use the thread that remains on the top of the fabric to tug a few times until all of the loops have tightened into a little ball.  Pull the thread through the rest of the way.

French Knot – loose

Bring the needle up through the fabric, loosely twist the thread over the needle two or three times.  Tighten only slightly and go back into the fabric just next to where you came out.  Pull the needle through controlling the twists as you do so, the aim being to achieve two or three loose loops of thread held down by the thread that goes into the fabric.  Working a bunch of these together to fill an area creates the impression of foliage or flowers seen in the distance.

Extended French Knot (Pistil Stitch)

Bring the needle up through the fabric, twist the thread over the needle once or twice and tighten.  Go back into the fabric away from where you came out.  Pull the twists that are around the needle down to the bottom.  Hold the thread and pull the needle through to form the knot.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

There are varieties of detached chain stitch in the video clip on this page.  They are listed in the table below, in the order is which they appear, with the starting time for each variety in the right-hand column. 

Basic detached chain stitch	3 seconds
Double detached chain stitch	55 seconds
Triple detached chain stitch	2 minutes 49 seconds

In the video clip on the tuition page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread around a central French knot.  If you want experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, work with similar thread.

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

Single Detached Chain Stitch (basic)

Bring the needle up at the base of the stitch and pull through.  Take the needle back into the same hole and come up again where you want the stitch to end, loop the thread under the needle and pull through.  Catch the loop with a small couching stitch.

Double and Triple Detached Chain Stitch

When working double and triple detached chain stitches, work the first (single) detached chain stitch by starting a little higher than you would if you were working it on its own.

To work the double detached chain stitch, work the first detached chain using the darker thread.  Place a tapestry needle under the two sides of the main part of the stitch as indicated in the diagram.  Using the lighter thread, came up below the first detached chain.  Take the needle back into the same hole and manipulate it so that it comes out where you will want to catch the loop with the small couching stitch.  Make the threads of the loop lie under both sides of the horizontal needle and, also, the needle that will catch it.  Tighten the stitch, work the small couching stitch to catch the loop and remove the horizontal needle, making sure that the inner detached chain remains slightly raised in the middle.

To work the triple detached chain stitch, work the first two as indicated above.  Remove the horizontal tapestry needle that guided the threads of the second stitch.  Place it under both stitches that you have worked, as indicated in the illustration on the right, above.  Come up below the start of the second stitch, work a detached chain around the second stitch, catching the loop under the horizontal tapestry needle on both sides and again at the top, finishing off with a small couching stitch that catches the loop.  Pull reasonably tight so that the stitches in the centre pop up a little bit.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

Whilst normally worked with a single strand of stranded cotton or silk, the sample in the video is worked with perle #5 thread, for the sake of clarity.  There is a second sample worked with perle #12 thread.  Neither of them uses the threads that you would use to work on a project but with these threads, you should be able to see what to do.

In the video clip on the tuition page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread on straight lines.   If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, work on similar lines with similar thread.

• With a heat erasable pen, draw small circles between 5 and 10 mm in diameter.

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

Working the stitch:

• In the middle of the circle that you have drawn, pierce the fabric with a tailor’s awl, pushing it all the way down to the handle. 
• Come up on the line that depicts the outside circle of the eyelet. 
• Go through the hole that you created with the awl, coming up a little further along the outside line (in either direction), catching the loop of the thread and pulling through to create a buttonhole stitch. 
• Keep working buttonhole stitches in this way and when you get back to where you started.
• Catch the last buttonhole stitch with a small couching stitch.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

There are varieties of chain stitch in the video clip on this page.  They are listed in the table below, in the order is which they appear, with the starting time for each variety in the right-hand column. 

Basic traditional chain stitch	9 seconds
Reverse chain stitch	48 seconds
Chain stitch/backstitch combination	2 minutes 27 seconds
Whipped chain stitch	3 minutes 28 seconds
Whipped chain alternative	4 minutes 2 seconds
Chain stitch circles	5 minutes 37 seconds

In the video clip on the tuition page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread on straight lines.   If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, work on similar lines with similar thread.

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

• With a heat erasable pen, draw 6 parallel lines placing them about 10 mm apart.

Working the stitches:

Chain Stitch

Bring the needle up on the line and pull through.  Take the needle back into the same hole and come up again where you want the chain stitch to end, loop the thread under the needle and pull through.  Staying inside the loop, go back into the same hole, loop the thread under the needle and pull through.  Repeat as required and catch the last loop with a small couching stitch.

Chain Stitch – Reverse

Working chain stitch in reverse gives a neater, more controlled result than you will achieve when working it the traditional way.  Start with a short straight stitch.  Come up on the line slightly further down.  Take your needle under the backstitch and go back into same hole.  Continue by coming up on the line slightly further down.  Take your needle under both threads of the previous loop and go back into same hole.  Continue in this way finishing off by just going back into the same hole for the last loop.

Chain Stitch Backstitch Combination

Work a row of chain stitch using shade no. 1.  Thereafter, using shade no. 2, work backstitches from the middle of the first chain stitch to the space just before the start of the chain stitch.  Follow that with back stitches that start in the middle of the next chain stitch and go into the start of the back stitch in the previous chain stitch.  Continue doing backstitch in this way, finishing up on the outside of the last chain stitch.  When you do multiple rows of this stitch combination, it is sensible to complete the back stitch in the row before moving onto the next row of chain stitch because it is difficult to see where you should stitch if you have done all of the chain stitch before you start on the backstitch.

Whipped Chain Stitch

To whip chain stitch, bring your needle up adjacent to the beginning of the line of stitching.  Take your needle and thread over, then under each stitch.  It is advisable to use a tapestry needle when whipping.  A contrasting colour thread is often effective.

Whipped Chain Stitch Variation

Work a single line of chain stitch.  With a separate whipping thread on a tapestry needle, whip up the side of the chain stitch taking in only the outer (bottom) side of the loop.  Work a second row of chain stitch next to the first, making sure that the stitches start and end level with the stitches in the first row of chain stitch. Whip the top side of the loop of the first row and the bottom side of the loop of the second row of chain stitch together with the whipping thread.  Continue adding rows of chain stitch in this way, whipping before you start the next row.  Whip the top side of the last row of chain stitch to complete.

Chain Stitch Circles

Following the instructions for traditional chain stitch above, work even sized stitches on the line.  When you get back to where you started, work the last stitch weaving under the start of the first stitch going back into the hole you came out of and ending off your thread.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

There are a few varieties worked with and around bullion knots in the video clip on this page.  They are listed in the table below, in the order is which they appear, with the starting time for each variety in the right-hand column. 

Basic Bullion Knots	4 seconds
Bullion Lazy Daisy	5 minutes 42 seconds
Bullion Lazy Daisy (double)	6 minutes 45 seconds
Lazy Daisy Bullions	10 minutes 33 seconds
Looped Bullion Knots	11 minutes 53 seconds

In the video clip on the tuition page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread on 2 parallel and horizontal straight lines.   If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, work on similar lines with similar thread.

• With a heat erasable pen, draw 2 horizontal parallel lines placing them about 10 mm apart.

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

Working the knots:

You will note, when watching the video clip, that I work bullion knots in a way that is different to what is usually taught.  By doing it my way, it makes it easier for you to work out exactly how many times you need to wrap the needle to fill the space between the two ends of the knot. 

Work between the lines, starting on the top line and pulling towards yourself. 

Bullion Knot

Come out of the fabric at the start of the space you wish to fill and go in again at the end of that space. Come out again at the start of the space.  Leave a loop of thread on the top and don’t pull the needle all the way through the fabric.   Twist the thread around the needle as many times as you require.  Holding the twists with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand, pull the needle through.  Pull the working thread until the knot lies flat and take the needle back into the fabric at the start of the space. 

Bullion Lazy Daisy Stitch

Following the guidelines for bullion knots above, work a knot of the required length.  Insert a spare needle under the bullion knot as indicated in the diagram above.  Bring the working needle up through the fabric just below the base of the bullion knot.  Go back into the same hole coming up just about the tip of the bullion knot.  Guiding the thread under both sides of the spare needle and under the tip of the working needle, pull through.  When you tighten the lazy daisy stitch try to ensure that it lies slightly underneath the bullion knot.  This will cause the knot to pop out a bit, making it more pronounced.  Finish the lazy daisy stitch with a small couching stitch that catches the loop, holding it in place.

Bullion Lazy Daisy Stitch – double

Following the guidelines for bullion knots above, work a knot of the required length.  Insert a spare needle under the bullion knot as indicated in the diagram above.  Bring the working needle up through the fabric just below the base of the bullion knot.  Go back into the same hole coming up just about the tip of the bullion knot.  Guiding the thread under both sides of the spare needle and under the tip of the working needle, pull through.  When you tighten the lazy daisy stitch try to ensure that it lies slightly underneath the bullion knot.  This will cause the knot to pop out a bit, making it more pronounced.  Finish the lazy daisy stitch with a small couching stitch that catches the loop, holding it in place. Work a second lazy daisy stitch around the first one in the same way, tightening it to lie slightly under the first lazy daisy stitch.

Lazy Daisy Bullions

Bring the needle up at the base of what will be the detached chain stitch.  Go back into the same hole and before pulling through, come up at what will be the tip of the detached chain stitch.  Pull through.  Under normal circumstances, you would finish the stitch with a small couching stitch.  Instead, work a bullion knot (usually short, about 4 or 5 wraps).

Looped Bullion Knots

To make a looped bullion knot, do it in the normal way but wrap the thread more times than you need to fill the space available, so that the bullion knot will not lie completely flat but will loop up slightly.  These are particularly useful for making bullion roses.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

Downloadable and printable PDF instructions.

Essentially the same thing, the only difference between the two stitches is the spacing between them.   They are listed in the table below, in the order is which they appear in the video clip at the bottom of the tuition page, with the starting time for each stitch in the right-hand column. 

Blanket Stitch	9 seconds
Buttonhole Stitch	59 seconds

In the video clip on this page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread on 2 parallel and horizontal straight lines.   If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, work on similar lines with similar thread.

• With a heat erasable pen, draw 2 horizontal parallel lines placing them about 10 mm apart.

Working the stitch:

Work between the lines, starting on the bottom line and pulling towards yourself.  The purl (or ridge) of the stitches will form on the bottom line.

A single buttonhole or blanket stitch looks like a reversed capital L. 

This doesn’t matter if you are working a circle because you will work around the circle until you get back to where you started.  If you are working a straighter line, it means that if you go straight into working the first stitch, you will have a missing leg, as indicated by the arrow in the illustration above. So, the trick is to fill in the leg before it is missing by starting with a straight stitch.

• Working from left to right, bring the needle up on the bottom line, where you require the purl. 
• Take the needle in on the top line to create a straight stitch.

• Bring the needle up on the bottom line, coming out of the same hole that you came out of when you started the straight stitch.
• Leaving a space, go in on the top line, and without pulling through, come out again on the bottom line, directly below where you went in on the top line, with the thread looped under the needle. 
• Pull through. 

If you are working Blanket Stitch, leave a gap when you go in at the top edge and again at the bottom edge when you come up to catch the loop and pull through to finish the stitch.

If you are working Buttonhole Stitch leave only enough space to form the stitch without pushing the existing stitches out of place.  Whilst not quite as close, your spacing is similar to satin stitch so that the finished product looks like satin stitch with a purl on the one edge.

• Continue adding stitches in this way making sure that, if you are creating blanket stitch, the gaps that you leave between the stitches are even.
• It is worth noting that if you are working the stitch on a curve with the purl on the outside of the curve, you will leave a slightly smaller, but evenly spaced gap on the top line so that the stitch fans around evenly.
• The image at the top of these instructions is a circle of blanket stitch with the purl on the inside of the curve.  This required that the gaps between the stitches opposite the purl edge were worked further apart with those between the stitches on the inside were closer but nevertheless, evenly spaced.

Referring to the video clip, in conjunction with the diagram above, secure at the end with a small couching stitch over the last loop.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

• 

There are numerous iterations of backstitch in the video clip at the bottom of this page.  They are listed in the table below, in the order is which they appear, with the starting time for each variety in the right-hand column. 

Basic Backstitch	10 seconds
Whipped Backstitch	4 minutes 6 seconds
Laced Backstitch	4 minutes 49 seconds
Interlaced Backstitch	5 minutes 38 seconds

In the video clip on the tuition page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread on straight lines.   If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, work on similar lines with similar thread.

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

• With a heat erasable pen, draw 4 parallel lines placing them about 10 mm apart.

Working the stitch:

Work basic backstitch onto all of the lines.

Basic Backstitch

Working from top to bottom, bring the needle up a stitch length before the beginning of the line.  Go in at the beginning of the line, coming up again a stitch length below the beginning of the stitch you are working.  Repeat as necessary, keeping your stitch length as even as possible.

Whipped Backstitch

To whip back stitch, bring your needle up out of the same hole as the first backstitch at the beginning of the line of stitching. Take your needle and thread over, then under each stitch.  It is advisable to use a tapestry needle when whipping.  A contrasting colour thread is often effective.

Laced Backstitch

Work a line of backstitch as instructed above.  With either the same thread, or a contrasting thread to provide interest, bring the needle up out of the same hole at the start of the line of backstitch.  Thereafter, referring to the diagram above, snake through the backstitches going from right to left, then from left to right continuing in this way until you reach the end of the line.  Go back into the fabric at the end of line, using the same hole as the backstitch.

Interlaced Backstitch (2 variations)

First variation:  When you have completed the line of backstitch, possibly changing to a contrasting thread, come up at the start of the backstitch line.  Go under the second backstitch.  Changing direction, go under the first backstitch and over the interlacing thread that came down from the first backstitch.  Continue by going under the third backstitch, changing direction, going under the second, taking the needle over the interlacing thread.  Keep going in this way until all the backstitches have been laced fishing off by going into the same hole as the backstitch at the end of the line.

Second variation:  Referring to the video clip, work short horizontal straight stitches next to the backstitches, lining them up with the middle point of each backstitch. When you have completed the line of straight stitches, possibly changing to a contrasting thread, come up at the start of the backstitch line.  Go under the straight stitch on the side and under the second backstitch.  Changing direction, go under the first backstitch and under the next straight stitch on the side.  Keep going in this way until all the backstitches have been laced.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

Basic needle weaving is a simple, but effective way to fill a large space and is used in various ways thoughout the designs in our range of embroidery projects. This tuition page gives you the basics of needle weaving after which you might wish to attempt some loom weaving patterns that have been modified for needle weaving.

In the video clips on this page, the small samples were worked with perle no. 5 thread on circles measuring 20 mm in diameter. If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, trace the template that is on the PDF instructions, onto your working fabric.

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

• Trace the 20 mm diameter circle with a heat erasable pen.
• With the same heat erasable pen, draw vertical and horizontal lines down and across the middle of the circle.  These lines will be a useful guide. 

Single Weaving

When working both the warp and the weft stitches, it is usually better to start in the centre of any shape that you are working.  It helps you to set the angles that you need to use. 

The Warp Stitches

The warp stitches are long straight stitches that are worked over the shape in which you want to place needle weaving.  They are the stitches that will be woven through when you work the weft stitches. 

The sample in these instructions is a circle which means that there is no longer or shorter side.  On most other shapes, one side will be longer than the other and it is usually best to work the warp stitches over the shortest side.  This is because potentially, they loosen easily so the shorter the stitch, the less potential they have for loosening noticeably.

• Starting on the centre vertical line, work vertical warp stitches to fill both sides of the circle. 
• On circle of 20 mm diameter, you will probably fit in about 19 stitches, one in the middle and 9 on either side.
• Come up at the top of the circle and go in at the bottom.
• Leaving a sliver of fabric to show, come up at the bottom and go in at the top.  It is important to leave a little space between the warp stitches (about the width of a thread).  If you pack them too closely together you will have difficulty differentiating between each stitch when you start the weaving in the warp rows.  You will also find that the weaving begins to ‘bubble’ because you have too much thread in one small space. 
• Keep working out to the side, trying to keep your warp stitches parallel to one another and evenly spaced.  Weaving is a forgiving technique and whilst you aim for straight, evenly spaced stitches, don’t fret if they aren’t perfect.  Once you have worked the weft rows through these stitches, they will mask anything that’s slightly crooked or slightly further apart.
• Once you have completed the one side, return to the centre of the circle and work the other side.

The Weft Stitches (or rows)

• Starting once again, in the centre come up through the fabric on the perimeter line of the circle.
• Following the diagram above, work the first row going under the first warp stitch, over the second, under the third and so on.  Over one and under one for the entire row.
• When you reach the other side, pull the thread taut and making sure that it is lying at right angles to the warp stitches, go into the fabric on the line, at the point where it crosses the line.
• To work the next row, you have two options.  You can come up on the same side, leaving a space similar to that space you left between the warp stitches or you can return to the side where you started the first row, coming up below the first row leaving a similar space. 
• So, if we assume that you returned to the same side as where you started, you started the first row by going under the first warp stitch so you start the second row by going over the first warp stitch.  Complete the row in the same way, going over where you went under (and vice versa) in the first row, going in on the other side leaving a similar spacing as you left at the start of the row.
• Keep going in this way, alternating the sequence in every row.
• As you work the weft rows, you will probably find that they ‘hang down’ a little.  That they don’t hug the previous weft stitch.  From the beginning of the third row start using your needle to push up the previous rows.  ‘Load’ the needle with warp stitches, as many as you can and before you pull through push the needle up hard.  This will push the previous weft row up so that it hugs the row before that.  Do this on every weft row.
• Work to the bottom of the circle and then return to the middle to work the top.  Continue alternating the sequence as you work each row and instead of pushing up with your needle, push down so that the rows hug those below.

Double Weaving and Uneven Weaving

The Warp Stitches

Double and Uneven weaving are worked over two and then under two warp stitches.  With this in mind, you make it easier for yourself if the place two warp stitches close together (out and into the same hole), leave a space and then work the next pair.  This is demonstrated on the video clip. 

In line with the instructions for single weaving, start on the middle line of the circle working vertical pairs of stitches out to one side.  Return to the middle and work pairs of stitches out to the other side.  In total, you will work about 9 pairs of warp stitches over the 20 mm circle.

The Weft Stitches

Double Weaving:

• Starting once again, in the centre come up through the fabric on the perimeter line of the circle.
• Referring to the bottom half of the diagram above, go under two stitches, then over two and under two for the rest of the row. 
• As with the single weaving, when you reach the other side, pull the thread taut and making sure that it is lying at right angles to the warp stitches, go into the fabric on the line, at the point where it crosses the line.
• Work a second, identically sequenced row.
• The third and fourth row are worked with the opposite sequence.  You start by going over the first two warp stitches, then under the next two and so on. 
• As with the single weaving, continue to the bottom of the circle and then work the top half, alternating the sequence every time you have completed two weft rows.
• Also as with the single weaving, use your needle to push up or down as you work the rows so that they hug the rows before.

Uneven Weaving:

• Like the double weaving, you work over and under two warp stitches with the difference being that you change the sequence every row.  Following the top half of the diagram above, use similar spacing and use your needle to push up (or down) so that the weft rows hug one another.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).

Detached Buttonhole Stitch forms the basis for most needle lace techniques which are used throughout the designs in our range of embroidery projects.

In the video clip at the bottom of this page, the small sample was worked with perle no. 5 thread on a rectangle measuring 30 x 10 mm. If you wish to experiment with the stitch before you work it onto your project, there is a template on the printable PDF document, and you should work with similar threads. 

The stitch instructions and diagrams appear below, with the video clip at the bottom of the page. If you would like a printable version, click here.

• Using perle #5 thread, work backstitch around the entire shape.  Aim to work 6 stitches on the longer sides and 3 on the shorter sides.  These backstitches provide an anchor for the detached buttonhole stitches in the first row and, also, define the shape that you wish to fill.

Working the stitch:

• Coming out from under the backstitch, bring your needle up on the left side, as indicated in the diagram above.
• Working from the top down, go under the first horizontal backstitch.  Note that you don’t go into the fabric, just under the backstitch and in later rows, through the loop. 
• Making sure that the working thread is under the needle so that you catch the loop, pull through to form a buttonhole stitch. 
• Work a detached buttonhole stitch through each backstitch in top row.
• When you get to the other side, go into the fabric tucking your needle under the backstitch on that side.
• Come up from under the backstitch further down, leaving sufficient space to accommodate the next row.
• Stitch the next and subsequent rows by working a detached buttonhole stitch into every loop between the stitches in the previous row, going into the fabric at the end of each row and coming up further down in preparation for the next row.
• When you get to the bottom of the shape, work each detached buttonhole stitch individually coming up from under the backstitch directly below the loop you need to attach.  With the needle going over the working thread, pull through and go into the fabric having crossed over the thread that comes out of the fabric.

And now for the video clip that covers all of the above.

(Don’t forget to click the icon in the bottom right-hand corner to get it to full screen).